I want to tell the story of how ten strangers became friends, and the history of ten bikes and ten cities. You may think it all started to make a trip, but it was all torn pieces of a story full of roasted meat and grills.
A strange year has passed, full of new experiences , revived old emotions and adventures of all sorts. Many countries have seen my passport to cross their border offices. Germany, Tunisia, UK, USA, Spain, Honduras, Panama, Salvador ... Now I'm leaving for a new adventure on the banks of the Balkan Adriatic Sea, riding my trusty steed of Nero, in the company of strangers nine of which are known only names. In the days before I went to Barcelona with a friend accompanied by a princess, the discovery of Gaudi, Picasso and Dali, around sailing, cooking dumplings for my guests catalanes y gallegos, walking around with a small custom for ports hidden on the border between Catalonia and France, then I arrived in Alghero, a land of pirates, sailors and good people. I left the princess in this island to enjoy the sun, I wash my left ear in memoria dei filibustieri e corsari che solcavano quelle acque, e sono tornato a Roma per prepararmi ala partenza per Crna Gora.
7/8/10 Roma km 66261
I preparativi hanno preso tutta la serata, parte della notte e del mattino tra vestiti, ricambi per la moto e attrezzatura da campeggio. Alle otto di mattina mi sveglio e carico le ultime cose sulla moto. Nerone è pronto per quest’avventura con le gomme nuove, un bel tagliando e le valigie di alluminio cariche; il GPS si accende e comincia a disegnare la lunga traccia di questo viaggio. Parto per Ancona ricordando quando Domitilla, la mitica vespa rossa romana, era il mio cavallo in altre avventure. Prima da solo facendo rotta verso l’Azerbaijan e poi con un grande amore sulla sella posteriore in Grecia. Con lei siamo stati in Austria, Spagna, Portogallo, Grecia, Turchia e poi per Roma tutti i giorni. Abbiamo viaggiato con vari motori, facendo rodaggi e con cilindri nuovi, con tante modifiche e pochi bagagli. Adesso Nerone mi ha portato tra le sabbie del Grande Erg Orientale e, carico come un mulo, mi sta portando verso nuovi orizzonti. Camminiamo allegri sull’asfalto e il motore canta con un basso continuo degno di Stockhausen, che fa da sottofondo alle stonate canzoni urlate dentro il casco. Cullati dal sole passiamo attraverso Lazio, Umbria e Marche. I cartelli stradali recitano gli affascinanti nomi dei comuni italiani, ricchi di storia, poesia e tradizioni. Alla fine dovremmo essere in dieci moto a fare questo viaggio per enduro stradali, tra le nere montagne del Durmitor, le tracce del Rally di Albania e gli sconosciuti paesaggi macedoni. Gianluca lo conosco già un pochino e so che, nonostante la sua rigidità, è una persona di cui mi posso fidare abbastanza. Manè l’ho incrociato in viaggio e sembra un bravo ragazzo, molto tranquillo e disponibile. Quando arrivo ad Ancona li trovo entrambi agli uffici del porto ad aspettarmi, con le moto cariche a riposare sotto il sole, in attesa di essere imbarcate sul traghetto che da Ancona porterà a Bar, in Montenegro. Arriva Stuart, l’uomo celeste, di pessimo umore perché teme di perdere il traghetto. Tranquillo e simpatico eppure capace di reazioni sanguigne and irrational. Vlasta then there's the blonde, the dark and Fabio Max. Vlasta I met in Tunisia, Tozeur on the track, always on the edge of the DRZ. Now it is here in search of peace and of itself. Max and Fabio do not know them at all, but soon began to discover them. We are able to embark on the ship and begin to chat.
As we speak I try to understand the limitations and potential of travel companions. Everyone wants to relax, someone is looking for adventure, others are hungry for new landscapes. Manè know that fall will face a difficult work and wants to pull the plug. Observes and follows the group dynamics. Will want to make the broom on the tour to enjoy il paesaggio e scattare fotografie (bellissime!). Max ha lo sguardo assorto, come se avesse molti pensieri nella testa a distogliere l’attenzione dal presente. Fabio è timido e discreto all’inizio, come se stentasse a lasciarsi andare. L’uomo celeste sembra un po’ estraneo alle logiche di gruppo, ma spero riesca ad integrarsi presto. Vlasta è persa nel suo mondo, con la testa rincorre gli avvenimenti che hanno sconvolto la sua vita nell’ultimo anno. Saprà gestire il fatto di essere l’unica donna con nove uomini? Gianluca è un lupo della steppa, gregario, ma solitario. Seguirebbe il gruppo solo finché questo si allineasse alla sua idea di viaggio. Ma dubito lascerebbe il gruppo, poiché da esso is making the journey itself. Tomorrow we meet Pasquale, Alessio Bibo and Montenegro. We'll see what his portion. The ship is small but very nice. All my journey begins with a relaxing ferry. In the end, my country is in the midst of the sea and ferry me back to the history of my ancestors Venetian, trade and exploration. The sea cradle quiet, unable to be angry with the sun so beautiful. I watch the sunset on this sun dipping into the sea to other shores illuminate darkened and wake up people. On the left earlobe earring glitters Alghero. Now I follow the origins of a grandmother Gypsies, Montenegrin or Albanian, perhaps, the daughter of horse-breeding nomads. Chissà che sotto le ombre delle nere montagne di Crna Gora o tra i boschi selvaggi di Shquiperia non ritrovi qualcosa del mio passato in queste terre a me ignote come le mie origini. Mal che vada mi recherò in Calle dell’Amore degli amici, in Calle dei Marrani o sul Ponte delle Maravegie in cerca una porta sul fondo di quelle corti, e me ne andrò in altri bellissimi luoghi. Ma vediamo come procede questa avventura che puzza di tasselli, fango e polvere, prima di lasciarla in cerca di una nuova, prima di aprire una delle tre magiche porte di Venezia e fuggire in un’altra favola. (315 km) 8/8/10 Bar Km 66576
Ci svegliamo presto per scoprire che la nave è in the table on time delay of about two hours of navigation. I go up on deck to enjoy views of the coast that gets closer to the ship. It's hot, but I feel really alone when the ship docks at the pier and I am in line to get all dressed up in the garage with caps, jackets and motorcycle boots. When we go down then I will stop in the square of the port to wait for the others, while lonely Gianlupo hastens to exit the transit. When the others arrive presents the first problem: the heavenly man has the rear tire on the ground. Put off, we arm of patience and we apply our talents to lift the bike. With levers, soap and water Remove the wheel and change the tire.
are leaving the port with its Pasquale xlv 750 rd01, the mother of the Africa Twin who have crossed the deserts of the great African rally. Tells the incredible story of how he was going to miss the ferry port and has duped the guards by telling half-truths and false papers. At least this time did not miss the ferry. The first step is the gas station. The green costs € 1.2, while the red, which in Italy has disappeared, cosata € 1.18. We start the journey north coast to reach the meeting place with Bibo and Alex, the other two elements of the group, which landed in Split, as the ship to the bar seats were sold out. After a few kilometers, we stop cevapi to eat, a kind of dumpling with meat and barbecue, local product. I drink beer for the first time nationally, the Nik Gold, the blades lager produced in Niksic, Montenegro's second largest city after Podgorica. Very nice! Again, crossing Budva, Kotor and other coastal towns populated by Belarusians, Serbs and Montenegrins. Because of the girls in costume who walk on sidewalks to various risk of accidents. Having passed the test of a mandolin in thong bottoms and long leg (stuff that Heracles and the Sirens us a blowjob), we can enter the fjord and realize the beauty of nature in this place. We get to Morinij, the camp where we reach out to others, and planting tents. Unload the luggage off again for a short hike around, off-road course, mind expect others to come. We begin to climb until we find a nice dirt road that leads to the antennas on top of the mountain above the fjord, at 1500 meters. The view is breathtaking. 
While the front tire go down Fabio fora. And we stop to replace it. Towards evening we reach the camp where, meanwhile, arrived Bibo and Alessio. A few kilometers before our destiny, Mane hole front wheel. And we are at three punctures on the first day of travel. ... A cold shower and then all at dinner together. Ten motorcyclists at a table trying to form a group for the holiday. Around midnight we stuck in tents, tired from the busy day. (172 km) 9/8/10 Morinij 66748 Km
Remove the curtains, go to breakfast and then all aboard. We head for Žabljak, in the nature of dormitory, the highest mountain in Montenegro, and full of jezero lakes. The road climbs high above the fjord, everything seems to be going well, but surprises are always lurking. The motion of Easter, called Shark, stops working and starts to run at a cylinder. We stopped at a yard and experts dismantled the bike and try to extract a symptom diagnosis. In this stop everyone does some can: Comprehensive e Max prendono il sole, Gianluca guarda l’orizzonte, Manè e l’uomo celeste si guardano intorno. Alessio, Bibo e Squalo smontano bobine, candele, fanno test, e dibattono sull’utilità del wd 40 sui contatti elettrici. Bibo lo usa da anni, mentre Squalo dice che è un isolante. Da questo si evince che è un ingegnere: in teoria sa tutto ed in pratica non sa fare niente. Alla fne concludono che la pompa della benzina è rotta. Viene smontata, presa a calci, martellate, gli vengono sussurrate parole magiche, ma lei non ne vuole sapere nulla di ripartire. Scendo in paese in cerca di un elettricista, ma senza risultati. Bibo, che si guadagna il soprannome di Piccolo Grande Uomo (anche se non c’è Ombra Silenziosa in giro a battezzarlo), crea un artefatto con un tubicino castrato sul serbatoio, escludendo la pompa elettrica, roba che MacGyver se la sogna di notte. E la moto riprende a funzionare. Arriviamo a Nikšić e cominciamo a cercare una nuova pompa. Mi ritrovo a girare con un meccanico per tutta la città con un caldo bestiale. Dopo avere visitato vari posti dove avremmo potuto trovare la pompa, un tale Mišo mi fa parlare con un meccanico di nome Veljko che parla italiano. Dice che ha una pompa che può andare bene, ma si trova a Podgorica. Raggiungo gli altri e, mentre mangiamo, io, Squalo e Gianlupo Solitario decidiamo di partire alla volta della capitale in cerca del pezzo di ricambio. Ci diamo appuntamento a Žabljak con gli altri che, nel frattempo, will have to find room for the night. We start at a steady pace on the mountain road up to turn the transfer into a special test of Moto GP. A honda 750, a KTM 640 and KTM 950 whizzing at 120 mph on the curves leading to the capital. Once in the city that we call a mechanic by appointment an hour later. We are looking for a rear tire for sharks, but without success. On the other hand we know Viktor, Montenegrin who speaks a little 'in Italian. It is backwards to help us and ultimately leads to the appointment to buy the pump. The gum should arrive in a couple of days. We leave the capital to join the others on Durmitor. The road climbs into the sunset up to 1800 meters. When night falls we are on a mountain road with poor visibility despite the additional spotlights on. When we arrive at your destination, we join others for dinner. They found a mountain chalet for rent near the Crno jezero, the black lake. € 10 per night per person: show! We got up from the table a little 'drunk and fall down in the bed dead tired.
10/8/10 Žabljak 67100 Km
We wake up slowly and prepare to go hunting for off-road trails in the mountains. When we find them we are enraptured by the beauty of landscapes. Long roads and sliding open the call for gas, while the view of mountain peaks and meadows invites you to linger.
shark remained in the field to fit the new pump on the bike, while the heavenly man, in the meantime renamed in honor of mouth heavenly De Andrè, was to resolve some of his existential problems. In front of the pack Alessio, now become Capitan Findus because of the luxuriant beard and the similarity, Gianlupo, Max-without-nick and I, followed by Vasta, Fabio and fucks her self-appointed Mane. Manè incredibly resembles a character from Star Wars Episode 1, so Jar Jar Bink. 
We stopped for lunch in a country run by a very nice man who speaks two words of French. We discover that you can do rafting and canyoning on the river Tara. The resume and go on to squeeze into a small road that ends at the end of the Tara River Canyon. 
It's fun to shoot some pics as we go easy ford speed. And then we leave. The mapping indicates that there should be a path on the right. We are at 1900 meters. The path is not there, but anyway we decided to try a climb. We arrive at the top and continue on foot to the summit at 2000 meters. The view opens up a valley with a wooded gorge. The walls of the mountains are steep and then soft down. A vote satisfied the vision back to the road. Just touch the tarmac are three bus loads of French tourists who ask us to do a ride. The men of the group make some comment about Italians and women abroad ... We come back home, shower and then dinner. The beautiful landscape invites us to extend our stay another day in Durmitor. Fabio and I are going to go rafting, while the others will go for a ride by jeep. Shark has completed its servicing and Mouth Celeste must resolve a problem with the front brake caliper stripped and locked in order to replace the tablets exhausted. Gargantuan dinner followed by an internet connection to see what happens in the world. Send an email to friends and relatives. I discover that Katie will be in Greece. Who knows, maybe catch up ... (131 km)
11/8/10 Žabljak Km 67231
Colazione insieme e poi il gruppo si separa. Io e Fabio andiamo verso il centro turistico in paese per fare un giro in gommone sul fiume Tara. 50 € dalle 10 alle 14, pranzo incluso. Seguiamo la strada che si snoda verso il fiume sino a raggiungere il punto di partenza del tour. Ci danno un giubbotto salvagente ed un baschetto. Inizia il giro. Siamo in dieci oltre al timoniere. Sulla barca olandesi, italiani e serbi. Il canyon visto dal fiume è meraviglioso. Le rocce salgono da
12/8/10 Žabljak 67384 Km
load in Bikes ready to greet the Durmitor heading to another park, Biogradska Gora. We get there by hiking trails that climb on rocks and then descend to the level of the rivers. The entrance to the park costs 2 €. 4 bungalows for rent in the only camp on the lake and then go to do some trekking, some rest, and I'm going to give me a ride off with some others. The path we choose rooms on the top ring of mountains surrounding the lake, to the circumnavigation of the same on the crests and ridges. E 'harvest season of blueberries (or blackberries, I did not understand) and, along the way, we meet different groups of collectors at work. At dusk I Capitan Findus and we connect to the internet and do the shopping for the barbecue. Jar Jar Bink lights the fire, Gianlupo-lonely-in-search-of-pack makes the grill and I prepare the meat for roasting. Join us a Montenegrin, two girls and a boy in France. Shark and some others start to practice with the international languages. We sing around the fire and we downed a bottle of rakija. Shark, which normally is a living being slow, so you deserve the nickname Shark Turtle, because of its slumber operative, is awakened and becomes active as never before. Because of grappa and songs do not pay attention to the hunting instinct awakened in our shark turtle. The next morning find out who did great hunt. (158 km
13/8/10 Biograska Gora 67,542 km
I quickly headed to breakfast and then we head for Shquiperia, Albania. Some off the street and other off-road. We find ourselves in a village where we stop for lunch at a restaurant called "Napoli" Too bad that our Naples, the shark in fact, has left us for a romantic stroll with the
14/8/10 Koplik 67767 Km
we marched anxious to discover this country. As it seems the secondary road Shquiperia are similar to our carter mountain, tracks dirt tracks that connect the country together. In practice, to move from one place to another have to force off-road! The landscape is bleak and wild, the vegetation is mixed. Shortly after lunch we arrived near a paese di nome Thethi, nel parco del Theth, con tanto di torrente, cascata, torre di reclusione e chiesetta romanica ricostruita. Ad un bivio conosciamo una coppai di Varese, Paolo e Laura, che viaggiano a bordo del loro Difender 90 rosso. Veniamo assaliti da una torma di bambini che ci vogliono affittare una stanza per la notte. In particolare uno, al massimo di otto anni, mi stupisce per il suo inglese, un livello molto alto rispetto ai bambini della sua età ed anche rispetto a tanti adulti. Così decidiamo di passare il resto della giornata e al notte in casa di una signora del paese. Accanto alla strada scorre un torrente che diventa la lavatrice per i nostri panni sporchi e il luogo del relax e dei giochi acquatici. Dopo tutti questi giorni intensi sentiamo sempre più il bisogno di relax e di riposo. Seguiamo il lento ritmo di questo posto nascosto al progresso. C’è una piccola chiesa appena restaurata, molto carina. Conosciamo un albanese che parla italiano con accanto toscano, vive a prato e lavora nel settore tessile. Ogni anno torna a visitare il suo paese natale. E’ un altro degli albanesi della diaspora. Cena frugale a base di feta, agnello bollito, verdura e latte di capra. (
15/8/10 Theth Km 67835
We leave the country following a path that will lead to the city of Shkoder. The journey is long and bumpy, but the group keeps a good pace and in a few hours we arrive at the destination. Shortly before the road becomes paved and a few kilometers from our destination, Gianlupo has a problem with the bike. Not most. Little Big Man put on his glasses, wearing a white coat and stethoscope and listens to the bike. Once the visit of the patient, the diagnosis is unanimous: battery, or burned. We need a new battery. Jar Jar Bink trolling Gianlupo tying his bike with that of Gian a safety belt. I advance all looking for a replacement battery. At the first village tell me that maybe I can find something in Shkoder, our destination,
16/8/10 Shkoder 67,948 km
The motion Gianlupo works again, we are all in the hotel restaurant for breakfast and an intense debate on the effects of the fever of travelers. We load our horses and go back to new horizons. This time, Tirana will be the final destination, passing through a small park near the capital, when we stopped for lunch in a shelter along the way, we are innocent victims of a trap. Once the list of orders, we see the waiter to get on a scooter, go down to the nearest town. About an hour and a half after the table is ready ... What makes me smile, someone is angry, someone complains. The wisest pennica opt for a shade. When we share is now half past three in the afternoon. We hurry to Tirane. Capitan Findus has an appointment with an Albanian friend who is a friend and organizer of the rally, this Edwin. Edwin brings us to the hotel to a friend who is himself a biker. Gives us some new sets of tires for le moto che dovremo andare a prendere l’indomani. Ci lanciamo sotto la doccia per lavare via il caldo, la polvere e la stanchezza accumulati nel viaggio. All’ora di cena ci portano in macchina ad un ristorante la cui caratteristica è
17/8/10 Tirane Km 68148
Al mattino vado in cerca di un punto per connettermi ad internet. Lungo il percorso incontro Edwin, Gianlupo, Fabio e Squalo che stanno andando a prendere le gomme per le loro moto. Li accompagno. Dopo pochi metri il nostro squalo tartaruga resta indietro e si perde nei meandri della capitale. Acquistiamo due treni di rally cross e la gomma posteriore per squalo, ce le mettiamo a tracolla ed andiamo dal gommista. Lascio Gianlupo e Fabio a cambiare gli pneumatici e vado in ufficio da Edwin a controllare la posta elettronica. Li ricevo in regalo una maglietta del rally di Albania 2010. saluto il nuovo amico e torno dagli altri. Stanno aspettando squalo che sta cercando di cambiare la gomma posteriore. Ovviamente si è perso. Nove persone stanno aspettando Godot, come il racconto di Beckett. Quando arriva finalmente ripartiamo. Pasquale, detto Squalo, otterrà in questa occasione definitivamente il soprannome di squalo tartaruga. Avremmo voluto uno squalo tigre o uno squalo grigio, ma sempre meglio di uno squalo balena…Lasciamo quasi subito l’asfalto e ci arrampichiamo su e già per i promontori e le colline in direzione di Elbasan. A metà pomeriggio c’è la pausa pranzo. Una signora molto simpatica prende Vasta, la porta in cucina e la mette a pelare le patate. Alla faccia dell’emancipazione! Appena l’ha vista scendere dalla moto ha deciso di spiegarle qual è secondo you place a woman in the kitchen! We also do a little 'cost for the evening. The program shall provide for the camp in mountain tents and barbecues. We climb for a few kilometers to about
18/8/10 Camping 68271 Km
made breakfast for everyone with the hot bread on the grill, the jam and Nescafe. Down the camp, Gianlupo goes away impatiently waiting for all of us and we wait for the shark turtle, which is carefully tucking all his clothes hanging in the sun to dry. Gianlupo meet again later stopped at a crossroads to show us the way to go. The bottom change, from rock becomes sand, then mud and pavement. The gullies on the path carved by the truck loggers make the march difficult for someone like me and Captain Findus, has bags of aluminum. Once in a village, the trail continues on a track that continues with the ford of a small waterfall in salita.In many are unwilling to make the salmon with the bike loaded with luggage. Capitan Findus, masx-without-nick and Fabio continue, I am back and forth between who stays and who goes notice of the decision. You'll end up ahead. Little Big Man draws a new location with a GPS navigator with its stellar qualities. A few kilometers further on the track will resume following a path much easier. At a junction where they should get the others, I continue heavenly and mouth, followed by little big man and Jar Jar Bink, while vast and Gianlupo still waiting for the others. Along the paved front tire of my limp, scoring pinch my first trip. Unmount and remount the tire. When replacing the hole again. Cover the tube previously removed and put everything in place. It was hot. We are covered with sweat and dust. The last kilometers are tremendous, even if the air mentre andiamo rende il caldo meno afoso. Arriviamo ad un piccolo bar nella periferia di Pogradec, una cittadina sul lago Ohrid, in cui convergono i tre confini di Macedonia, Grecia e Albania. In questo baretto di periferia comincio a chiacchierare con il barista/proprietario che è chiaramente interessato a questi dieci sporchi e puzzolenti stranieri vestiti da enduro ed alle loro dieci cavalcature. Brindiamo con al birra,. Poi ci offre un piatto di stufato di agnello con formaggio e pomodori che ha cucinato sua madre. Arriva un suo amico che parla inglese; dice di vivere nel New Jersey. Il personaggio non mi piace affatto. Ha qualcosa del bullo locale, nei modi, nella voce e nell’aspetto. Il barista invece è molto cortese e sembra una brava person. He asks me to do a ride and can live with, so now I am used to ride with so much weight off-road. Return to the swarm of admirers and thickening and four of us went in search of a hotel for the night. We are surrounded by people more like the local bully and far from sympathetic bartender. Calmed the situation by offering cigarettes and responding with kindness to all. The T-shirt to the rally really like Albania., The bully asks us where we came from. The answer from Montenegro. "Are you a Serb?" Asks a little 'pissed. "No, we are Italian, but we started from Montenegro." "If there were Serbs had already killed them all," answered the bully. And here I understand which is a little blowhard. What if I told you that I live for six months with a girl from Belgrade and that lately have become two? Rest of the doubt and I motioned to the other to move. The bartender insists to give him everything because we're nice. I do some 'resistance, then welcome. We leave the place by doing a little 'noise with the bike and eclipsed us from that situation more unpleasant. Meanwhile we get a text message with directions to the hotel they found the others. Take a shower, then I, Capitan Findus and Fabio go for a ride. Alessio washes his bike for 200 Lekh. We gather with others for a drink in a local dinner. The place is busy, the country I think is the more polished I've seen so far in Albania. In a country where they do not build, but have made an art of the patch, this country is very well patched. This is probably due to the fact that it is a tourist destination, due to the lake and the beauty of the landscape. We eat like hungry wolves. There comes a text message of Luke that we are reaching with her friend Helen. We meet them in their hotel with 100 GS PD. They tell us of their journey from Igoumenitsa to Pogradec avoiding potholes, animals and children along the way. (130 Km
19/8/10 Pogradec 68,401 km
Thanks al letto comodo ed all’aria condizionata ci troviamo tutti nella hall dell’albergo ben riposati. Il proprietario dell’hotel ci tartassa con la richiesta dei soldi per la notte. Cerchiamo di spiegargli, con l’aiuto di un signore albanese che parla inglese, che li stiamo raccogliendo. Squalo sta facendo i bagagli per tornare in Italia, visto che ha finito le vacanze. Gianlupo invece dice che vuole andare al mare e se ne va con la moto carica di bagagli. Bocca celeste è stanco e vuole restare in paese a rilassarsi e a fare il bagno nel lago. I restanti invece si preparano per una passeggiata in off road lungo le tracce del rally. Bellissimi passaggi tra sabbia, pietraie e l’attraversamento/guado di una palude, giusto per lavare la polvere by bike with the clear water of the swamp ... Luke said Zava you all the way with Elena per passenger. During the lunch break Fabio earned the nickname of the mouth of cream. Immediately after lunch hole new front tire. Now the group is quick to make repairs and tire changes. We are so fast that looks like a F1 pit-stop! The jokes are wasted during the repair and everything becomes so much fun. When we return to Pogradec, Zava gives us a cold beer to celebrate this day together. Following the dinner ceremony in a hotel restaurant overlooking the lake. Dinner menu? Tortellini with cream and ham. When we arrived at the hotel in a great mood. (191 Km
20/8/10 Pogradec 68,592 km
About seven and a half I am awakened by Jar Jar Bink about to leave because the next day was the ferry to Ancona. Accompany him to the bike and watched him go. The feeling that you're ending the adventure is getting stronger. We load the luggage, we salute Helen and Zava, which will be around a little, and head towards
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